Rainmaker and 'biodiversity
hotspot', the Western Ghats of southern India are one of the country's
most important natural assets. Biologically rich, the Western Ghats are
blessed with one of the highest rates of endemism in all of India. The
Western Ghats are also crucial for water regulation and it is their cold
heights that block the monsoon and ensure a continuous supply of water to
the dry plains. At a time when water scarcity and the loss of precious
biodiversity have become common themes in the daily news, the importance
of these ancient mountains cannot be ignored. The Western Ghats stretch 1,
440 km from the Tapti River, north of Mumbai, to the tip of the Indian
peninsula at Kanyakumari. Composed of a variety of dissimilar mountain
ranges, they form a near continuous wall separating the west Malabar Coast
from the drier regions of peninsular India. Now, at the dawn of the 21st
century, the Western Ghats are under assault from a number of forces.
Water, lifeblood of nature and our
human civilisation, is one of the strongest reasons for which the
protection of the Western Ghats is vital. Every summer as the earth tilts
its axis, powerful winds push the moisture-soaked clousds of the
south-western monsoon up the Malabar Coast. The Western Ghats, in fact,
prevent the monsoon clouds from reaching the interiors of the peninsula.
Despite this, forests on the slopes of the Western Ghats, acting much like
a giant sponge, absorb these torrential rains and release water in the
ensuing drier seasons. Eastward flowing rivers — the Cauveri and Krishna
— are two of the larger rivers fed by the Western Ghats.When natural
vegetation in the form of forests and grasslands has been destroyed and
replaced by plantations and other human interventions, the mountains give
less to the plains. Protecting the Western Ghats and their natural
vegetation is thus vitally important to the millions of people living in
the watershed areas on both eastern and western sides. It is a succinct
lesson not easily lost to the people living in the shadows of the hills.
Just what does it mean to be a
'biodiversity hotspot' and why should we be concerned about this buzzword?
A ‘biodiversity hotspot’ is an area of exceptional plant, animal and
microbe wealth that is under threat from human activities. The Western
Ghats, one of two 'biodiversity hotspots' in India (the other being the
Eastern Himalayas), are blessed with an abundance of life forms found
nowhere else on earth. Endemics in the Western Ghats include high profile
mammal species like the lion tailed macaque (macaca silenus) and
the Nilgiri tahr (hermitragus hylocrius). There are numerous lesser
endemic life forms, and experts estimate that "nearly two thirds of
the tree species in the forests of the Ghats are confined to these hill
ranges." Aside from the utter criminality of destroying what is not
ours to destroy, biodiversity holds the key to our future survival. In
times of distress and disaster, it will be our islands of biodiversity
that may provide for our future survival.
The Western Ghats present an amazing
variety of mountain and forest habitats that provide a breath of fresh air
for those seeking to reconnect with nature. Starting at Kanyakumari, the
mountains rise abruptly from the plains and sea. In the wetter zones from
Kerala north to Goa, fabulous evergreen rainforests teem with bird songs
and the buzz of insects. Protected areas like Silent Valley, Periyar and
the Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve still retain a hint of what was
once a dominant vegetation type in the Western Ghats. Above these forests,
protected by high cliffs, are plateaux whose biotic composition is
influenced by the colder temperature and high velocity winds. The unique
grasslands/shola ecosystem, often reminiscent of a surreal moonscape,
dominate the higher plateaux that have escaped development. Mukkurthy,
Eravikulam and Kudremukh retain examples of this unique ecosystem.
Deciduous forests still carpet many of the slopes on the eastern
rain-shadow of the Ghats. Protected areas in this zone, such as Nagarhole
and Mudumalai, harbour an amazing variety of wildlife wealth from small
creature all the way up to elephants, tigers and other classic Indian
wildlife. From Karnataka northwards, the Ghats meet the expansive Deccan
Plateau. The hills are lower in elevation compared to the rugged mountains
of the south. Composed of ancient basaltic lava flows, they fall in steep,
dramatic 'ghats' (steps) to the sea along the Konkan coast north of Goa.
All these habitats, with their tremendous variety of vegetation, wildlife
and landscape, provide nourishment to human soul.
The Western Ghats have been
protected from serious exploitation throughout much of India's long
history. Sheer inaccessibility and disease have made the mountain terrain
difficult to cultivate and settle. The indigenous communities of people
that overcame these challenges had little long-term impact on the habitat.
Many of these groups, like the Mudhuvans of the High Range/Anaimalais area
still live in isolated corners of the Western Ghats.
The isolation of the Ghats and other
forested areas of India changed during the British period when large areas
of virgin tropical forest were cleared for tea, coffee and spice gardens.
Throughout the 20th century, natural vegetation was replaced on a massive
scale with the introduction of exotic (non-native) tree species in the
bills of the Western Ghats. Most visitors now mistake eucalyptus, pine and
wattle trees for a part of the hill-station landscape when, in fact, they
are dangerous invaders! These plantations of exotic trees have been one of
the major factors in restricting the flow of streams in the dry season.
Hydroelectric schemes, with dubious long-run benefits, were started in
colonial times and have been pursued vigorously after India's
independence. It took the Silent Valley campaign in Kerala to wake people
up to the negative impacts of unquestioned dam-building sprees.
Today, habitat continues to be
dented and due to expanding hill-station development and the greed for
minerals hill-stations are becoming the antithesis of the rejuvenating
experiences that they were designed to be. Towns like Udhagamandalam (Ooty),
Kodaikanal and Mahabaleshwar used to be places of peace and
reinvigoration. They are now overwhelmed beyond their carrying capacities
with motorised, trash-throwing crowds. In the Nilgiri Hills, one of the
first Western Ghats ranges to be developed as a hill station, cinema
makers reckelssly film in sensitive habitat. They frequently leave a trail
of trash and disturbance at sites where they have filmed. Making matters
worse, viewers often seek to imitate their stars' exploits at these
locations! The result has been the spoilage of once-pristine and remote
environments. Meanwhile, mining in several protected areas is an ongoing
challenge to the Western Ghats. Kudremukh National Park in Karnataka faces
pressure from mining interests to denotify its protected interiors!
Imagine the difficulty of protecting habitat that is not officially
designated when notified areas are under pressure for their iron, granite
and other natural resources buried under tree cover!
Much has been done to protect the
Western Ghats and the tireless work of previous generations has ensured
the survival of well-known sanctuaries such as Periyar, Nagarhole and
Silent Valley. Courageous individuals, both in and out of the government,
ensure a brighter future in the Western Ghats. Projects include everything
from promoting the use of renewable energy to the inclusion of community
participation in forest management issues. Despite this, experts estimate
that of an area of 159,000 square kilometres, only 8.1% is protected. For
an area with such a large impact on the lives of people in peninsular
India, this is frighteningly small. Today it is critically important to
continue spreading the important message of conservation and ecological
awareness in the Western Ghats.
City dwellers have a role to play in protecting the
Western Ghats. Our wasteful consumption of resources puts pressure on the
fragile habitats where the resources originate. Precious water irrigates
the crops that are our dietary staples. Some of this water is caught in
the mountains and piped to our urban dwellings. We seek relief from the
heat in the hills and nourish our polluted, traffic-jammed souls in these
places of beauty. The plants and animals of ‘biodiversity hotspots’
like the Western Ghats may hold the keys to our future survival. We need a
new appreciation for the phenomenal importance of these mountains and the
value that there is in protecting them. There is a clear need for a new
edict of environmentally responsible behaviour in the mountains-one that
stresses walking over motorised transport, cloth over plastic, quiet over
noise and natural over exotic.
- B S Dhingra