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Striking Strides

Where the Sun Rises
Ambassadors Aboard
Guns of Angre
While on Kursura
Project Ashok
The Naval Nursery
Sailing on Snow
Kudos for TA Commitment
Combined Commanders Conference
Forward March
Rajputana Rifles : Attestation Parade
The World Around Us
From the File
Armed Forces Panorama
   
 
   

 

 

 

Sailing on Snow

 
 

The Kumaon region remains a vast amphitheatre of unclimbed peaks and unexplored valleys and glaciers. It extends from the Tibetan border in the east, where Lipu Lekh pass gives access to Mansarovar, upto the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in the west, where the Unta Dhura permits entry into neighbouring Garhwal. Dominating the region from the north-east end of the Yankchar glacier is Suitilla, standing unconquered (till recently) at 21,000 ft (6,373m). The modest height of Suitilla is more than compensated by the serious technical challenges it offers to climbers in the form of extreme gradients of mixed ice and rock surfaces.

So, when Admiral Madhvendra Singh, Chief of Naval Staff flagged off the naval mountaineering expedition on September 6 in New Delhi, he presented an ice axe, bearing the national flag and the naval ensign, and directed the team leader Lt Cdr Satyabrata Dam to take the ice axe where no one has ever been before. The team successfully scaled the virgin peak, Mt Suitilla (6373 m) on October 6. A second team thereafter took another assault on the peak on October 11. The ice axe was then returned in New Delhi during the flag-in ceremony on October 28 for safe keeping until the next expedition.

In tune with its motto of "fighting spirit through sports and adventure" the Indian Navy provides facilities and support for its personnel to take up challenging and robust outdoor activities. Capt Kohli of the Indian Navy was the leader of a successful expedition to Mount Everest in 1965. A complete expedition of the Indian Navy has been fielded only after 1959.

This present expedition was Indian Navy’s first of a series of major initiatives in mountaineering. The Suitilla peak stands defiantly in the Ralam valley of Kumaon posing numerous challenges to climbers and is aptly named because of its needle shaped top. It has defeated many earlier attempts by experienced mountaineers from India and abroad. It is pertinent to note that apart from the leader and deputy leader, this was the first mountaineering expedition for others. This maiden effort against a very challenging mountain was possible due to the meticulous planning, training, coordination, teamwork, camaraderie and a will to succeed.

The team moved by road to Munsyari to commence the five to six days trek to base camp which was established on September 23 at 13,850 ft, just below the Yankchar Dhura. The team then began ferrying of loads to the advance base camp, which was established on September 28 at 15,300 ft at the base of the peak itself. The team was thereafter divided into two groups, one to attempt a summit and the other to stay at base camp and render support.

The first group negotiated the crevasse-ridden icefall on the southwestern flank of the peak and set up Camp-1 on a ledge at 17,550 ft on October. The climb was extremely hazardous with falling rocks, freezing winds and 70 degree steep slopes. The team commenced climbing pre-dawn for four days and toiled towards the summit. Lt Amit Pandey (deputy team leader), Divyesh Muni (photo crew member) and Sherpa Nine Jorje climbed the peak at 1539 hrs on October 6. This was followed by a second successful ascent on October 11 by Lts KS Balaji and Amit Rajora, and two sailors, Raj Kumar and Anirban Choudhary, accompanied by two sherpas. Deteriorating weather prevented further attempts. The other members of the team included the team leader, Lt Cdr Satyabrata Dam, an experienced and acclaimed mountaineer, Lt Cdr Vombatkere, Lt Prashant Srivastava and Surgeon Lt PS Anand.

With success thus initiated, the Indian Navy looks forward to conquer Mt Everest in spring next year.

- Cdr Rahul Gupta